Wind, Wheels and Waddenzee: Schiermonnikoog and around
A 50+ adventure with Olivier — bikes, boats, and bliss
Fourteen-year-old me heard the name Schiermonnikoog when I lived in the Hague with my parents in the eighties and decided I had to go there one day. Thirty-something years later, on Ascension Day 2026, Olivier and I finally pointed our bicycles north and found out.
Day One: Wet Wheels and a Warm Welcome
We left The Hague (where we live with our red ginger cat- who did not join on the trip) very early, in rain so committed it felt personal, zooming by bike towards Central Station. Only nine bikes are allowed on this train, so the early start paid off — we squeezed on, changed at Zwolle, and shared a carriage to Leeuwarden with a former biker who turned rollator-and-bicycle traveller, full of stories and good humour.
From Leeuwarden it was 47 kilometres to the port of Lauwersoog, straight into a punishing frontal wind, racing a boat departure that gave the whole ride a stressful, clock-watching edge. We passed through Elfstedentocht territory — Dokkum, Moddergat (which translates, unglamorously, as “mud hole”) — pretty villages by the water that we didn’t quite have time to savour. (and I did moan about that a bit).
To be honest it was so gruelling I felt I must have aged considerably since our last trip.
At Lauwersoog we collapsed gratefully around a cappuccino (just managed to squeeze it in) before boarding the boat: an hour on open water (turns out there was a lower deck!), sun overhead but wind biting, weaving in long S-curves around the sandbanks to reach the island. A very long, thin strip of an island, absolutely beautiful, half of which at this time of the year isn’t accessible at all because it’s breeding season and is a bird sanctuary, that is how it stays so wild, absolute bliss. We arrived pink-cheeked and thoroughly wind-cured.
We are staying in the only “Vrienden op de fiets” (see at end) of the island. Our host Jeroen — cheerful, warm, four Siamese cats in tow — welcomed us to a cosy attic room more like an all-in-one studio, shared with other travellers (downstairs) in what felt like a grown-up version of student digs. After changing into dry clothes, we wandered the village: elegant old houses, an older, well-heeled crowd, and a beautiful café where we sat out of the wind and indulged in wine, beer and much-needed snacks. Delicious dinner at Jeroen’s recommendation at “Les quatre dames” and what a treat! I wasn’t expecting it to be so upmarket! Divine linguine di mare, a shared cheese platter the size of a serving tray, and a long, meandering conversation with the elderly couple at the next table about life’s ups and downs.
Both locals and inhabitants seem incredibly open and friendly and at least at this period of the year we are not the only over 50! Hot shower and bed by nine.
Schiermonnikoog is the northernmost inhabited of the Wadden Islands.
Day Two: Pedals, Puddles and pure gratefulness
No alarm, a leisurely wake-up, and breakfast with Jeroen’s household in full swing — including a small, assertive four-year-old who decided she adored me and held my hand through most of the meal. Fresh bread, cheese, eggs from Jeroen’s own free-range chickens: the kind of breakfast that makes you feel invincible.
With rain forecast, we set off by 11am and circled the island by bike — forests, lakes, marshland, baby ducks and baby lambs, and barely another soul on the paths. We stopped at the marina for ginger-lemon tea (I begged, successfully, for a pinch of cayenne to help my digestion along) and an apple tart for Olivier, then carried on to both lighthouses, the red one and the white one. We popped down to the beach for a lovely walk, gathering as I always do, all that does not belong there to feel I am contributing somehow to the health and beauty of the environment we are lucky to discover.
Lunch was at De Marlijn, a beautiful beach restaurant that’s part ‘strand tent’, part seafood haven: a beautiful sole for me, a red curry with prawns for Olivier, two glasses of wine and — after a genuinely thorough consultation with strangers at the bar — a new sweatshirt for me, with a swordfish Marlijn) that reminded me instantly of a favourite old haunt in Senegal, “L’ Espadon” . We cycled home in a downpour, fuelled on by booze and the elation of the day.
Time to warm up, chill a bit incubating all the emotions and sights and set off for an evening wander, puzzling at the contrasts: some beautiful houses and some very small, poorer-looking houses. Jeroen filled us in about the number of beautiful houses which have been owned for years, and shortage of affordable houses, problems with poverty and alcoholism.
Yet it remains very safe. We saw an expensive-looking bike for sale standing unlocked in the street.
Jeroen, our host, is quite a character with a colourful past, quite a few missing fingers who has created a little haven of love here with his four Siamese cats and all his chickens. There is a beautiful culture of bartering, I do your garden and you give me potatoes sort of stuff.
The other guests were also fascinating, and everyone candidly shared their stories, I love that sort of thing so much.
At seven pm we decided to go to eat but by then most restaurants were full but we got two seats at a local/family- run restaurant. It was nice to see that that existed too (I was wondering where the locals eat). It was half the price of the others, and the food was wholesome and tasty.
Did you know? Schiermonnikoog’s name comes from “grey monk island” — it once belonged to Cistercian monks from a nearby abbey, easily identified by their grey habits.
Day Three: Homeward, the Long Way
A last gorgeous breakfast, long chats with the other guests, then a short, sunny cycle to the boat before the sky opened again. On the crossing back to the mainland (in a large cosy lounge we didn’t see last time), I feel both sad to leave the island’s quiet and the flurry of work activity I have ahead.
But the trip wasn’t over. From Lauwersoog (mainland)we cycled 85 kilometres, this time gloriously with the wind behind us: through beautiful Lauwersoog Nature Park, Zoutkamp, and Ezinge (tart and coffee break, well earned). I love Dutch paths through fields, animals everywhere, villagers waving. Then straight through Groningen — cathedral, kermis, bridges lifting for boats, very atmospheric, made me want to come back for a full weekend. At one pointed we were feeling really tired and left the scenic route for the most direct one which was also really pretty.
Finally we arrived at Muntendam, where a lovely older couple hosted us in a fabulous gypsy wagon! The thing of films! Their house too was a treasure trove of art and eclectic things! A hot shower (in main building), and a walk into “town”. After 85 kms cycle I felt I could indulge in a delicious, entire four-cheese pizza each, and a very cold night saved by excellent duvets rounded things off (with one memorable mid-night detour to relieve myself in the woods, having forgotten the toilet key).
DAY Four: Home we go!
I really did not want to leave this adorable place, so colourful and lovingly put together amidst fields.
At 9 am they turned up with breakfast on a tray: eggs and different breads and homemade jam and yogurt and strawberries and bananas. It was absolutely perfect.
By 10 o’clock, we mounted our bikes again and set off. Hard work again today so after 40 kilometres of battling the wind and drizzling, we decided to head for Assen instead. Looked beautiful, though very deserted. And now we’re sitting having a cappuccino, and I have just had a huge piece of carrot cake, and that will be my last folly.
Olivier’s not feeling 100%. so, coca cola for him before we caught the train, cycled the last leg from the station home and happily cuddled our ginger cat, delighted with our adventure.
Did you know? The “Vrienden op de Fiets” network we stayed with — bed and breakfast with local hosts, often for a modest, fixed rate — has been connecting Dutch and Belgian cyclists with private homes since 1988. You register for 7,50 euro/year if you live in NL (and not that much more if you live elsewhere and then bed and breakfast is 27,50 pp!!!! Un believable but true and so far, we have only stayed in great places, and you learn so much from the hosts!
Practical Tips for the 50+ Cyclist Heading to Schiermonnikoog
- Get to the train early. Only nine bicycles were permitted on our train, and demand is high around public holidays like Ascension Day.
- Pack for four seasons in one afternoon. The boat crossing looks sunny, but the sea wind is bitterly cold — bring a proper windproof layer even in May.
- Rain capes over rain jackets. On multi-day cycling trips, a cape you can throw on quickly beats fumbling with jacket zips in a downpour.
- Budget more time than the kilometres suggest. A headwind can turn an easy 47km into a gruelling one; build slack into your schedule so you’re not racing a boat departure.
- Stay with a local host if you can. A * “Vrienden op de Fiets” room or similar gives you real island life — and usually a better breakfast than any hotel.
- Protect your joints, not just your itinerary. A cushioned saddle cover and padded shorts make a real difference over 40+ kilometre days — your bottom will thank you by day two.
- Leave room for spontaneity. Some of the best moments — a stranger’s life story, an impromptu sweatshirt purchase, a shared cheese platter — happened because there was no fixed plan for the evening.
Already dreaming of the next island.
And…. Sicily it will be!